US Grants Approval to Country’s First ‘Lab-Grown’ Meat

In a landmark move, the U.S. Department of Agriculture (USDA) granted its approval on Wednesday to two California-based firms, Upside Foods, and Good Meat, to sell chicken derived from animal cells, opening a new chapter in the realm of “lab-grown” or “cultivated” meat. This development brings the nation a step closer to a food revolution aimed at curtailing animal slaughter and mitigating the environmental impacts of traditional meat production.

The USDA’s decision arrived after the U.S. Food and Drug Administration determined earlier that the products from these companies are safe for consumption. As part of the approval, the firms are now cleared for federal inspections, which are essential for selling meat and poultry within the country. Joinn Biologics, a manufacturing partner of Good Meat, has also received approval to produce these items.

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Cultivated meat, created within steel tanks from cells of living animals, fertilized eggs, or stored cell banks, is the new frontier for these pioneering companies. Upside Foods develops large sheets of cultured meat, which are then crafted into forms like chicken cutlets and sausages. Good Meat, a company that already sells lab-grown meat in Singapore, the first country to authorize such products, transforms cell masses into various chicken products, including cutlets and nuggets.

These groundbreaking products, however, are not expected to land on supermarket shelves anytime soon. The high production costs and scalability challenges associated with cultivated meat make it unlikely to replace traditionally farmed chicken in the short term, according to Ricardo San Martin, director of the Alt: Meat Lab at the University of California, Berkeley.

Notably, these cell-cultured products differ from plant-based meat substitutes, such as the Impossible Burger and Beyond Meat offerings. These are actual meat products derived from animal cells.

The initial market introduction of lab-grown meat will be through exclusive partnerships with restaurants. Upside Foods has teamed up with San Francisco’s Bar Crenn, while Good Meat’s offerings will be featured at a Washington, D.C., restaurant run by chef Jose Andres.

While many consumers exhibit initial hesitation or “ick factor” towards cell-grown meat, companies believe understanding and experiencing the product firsthand can dispel concerns. Amy Chen, Upside’s chief operating officer, emphasizes that cultivated meat delivers the familiar taste that consumers have grown to love.

The journey from cells to meat involves the selection of cells most likely to deliver taste and consistency, which are then nurtured in a broth-like medium that provides essential nutrients for cell growth. On the Upside, muscle and connective tissue cells grow together into large sheets, while Good Meat produces large cell masses that can be shaped into different meat products.

However, challenges remain in terms of production volume and cost. Upside’s Emeryville facility currently can produce up to 50,000 pounds of cultivated meat products annually, with aspirations of expanding to 400,000 pounds per year. On the other hand, Good Meat did not reveal its production goal.

Sebastian Bohn, a specialist in cell-based foods at CRB, estimates that it could take several years before these products make their way to more restaurants and potentially a decade before they reach broader markets. Concerns also persist that lab-grown meat may remain a luxury product, thereby limiting its potential environmental impact.

As the field of cultivated meat continues to evolve, more than 150 global companies are developing cell-based versions of various types of meat, indicating a shift in the way we might consume meat in the future.